Le Maquis

Look, there are endless good to great restaurants in Paris. I’m not saying this is the best, or that if you’re staying in the 7th you should schlep all the way here to eat when there are a hundred equally delicious options near you. But if you find yourself in the 18th and want something that feels intimate and also easy — and really damn delicious — this is your spot. It is not in the terrible part of the 18th; and apparently this is where chefs hang on their night off? I don’t know if that matters, but I am still thinking about the clams in salsa verde I had there in June. And that says something.